Custom Tailored &Nbsp; Gentleman Spirit Totem.

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Dust in yesterday's men's fashion

Every man should have a suit of his own custom. Now it is rather boring to hear such a thing.

Why do we advocate customization today? We may as well search for answers from history.

Custom is a gentleman.

The ancient European gentlemen's code says, "every gentleman should be a traveler. The best time to travel between the fox hunting season in March and the beginning of the hunting season in early August is."

As a successful gentleman, he needs at least one trip to Europe in his whole life.

In 1839, Karl Badekerl, a German publisher, wrote the guidebook, "gentlemen go to Europe to explore Karl, more like a ceremony for becoming a gentleman", in 1839.

This book is a travel manual for gentlemen at that time. It describes how to go to the UK to make a suit suit.

This shows that customization is not only simple for a gentleman to make a fitted garment for himself, but also a mysterious puzzle in gentleman culture.

In the American writer Henry James's Portrait of a Lady, an American banker, Isabel Archer, an American banker, travels to Europe when he travels to Europe, and then goes straight to the clothing custom shop.

Just like the performance of the ladies in the early years, the custom of a Western-style dress is equivalent to the subculture of a gentleman's culture. This also allows new American millionaires to scramble for themselves and become a gentleman culture for them. They are eager to cover up the essence of the nouveau riche with their cultural cloak for themselves.

The most formal style of dress

Whether the gentleman's travel brochure or popular American novels, he has set the custom-made birthplace to London, England.

Back in the age of Vitoria, the British tailor designed a new dress for men.

As a substitute for traditional tuxedo, men can take off the complicated and cumbersome tuxedo and wear the new dress to enjoy the relaxing night life after the formal dinner.

This new dress is the future custom tailored suit, which gradually replaced the tuxedo and became the gentleman's main dress.

In the 80s of the last century, the British Savile Row (Savile) became a custom pronoun.

This street is located in the upper class residential area of London. In order to embody the guest's dignity, the custom shop on the street provides a unique Bespoke service to ensure that each guest has its own unique version.

From then on, the custom suit began to be more closely combined with an increasingly formed gentleman culture, and it influenced each other to develop a clearly defined gentry's dress code.

In this guideline, it is emphasized that gentlemen should not attach importance to brand and design, but to the degree of fabric and profile, and whether there is a lining between fabrics.

Pay attention to the length of trousers to the third row of shoestring, so that each pair of shoes needs a pair of trousers with a specified length.

In addition, the degree of tightness of the cuffs is also required for the location of cuff buttons. It is necessary to wash hands with buttons.

These fine rules almost define the local size of clothing to centimeters, so only customization can become such a complex garment.

These requirements have also become an important consideration in customization.

Identification code for gentlemen

In the first novel of Arthur Conan Doyle (A Study in Scarlet), Arthur Conan Doyle, the great detective Holmes, judged from the dress that he was a military surgeon returning from Afghanistan at the first sight of Wahson.

Of course, this can not be divorced from the super reasoning ability that the author has given to Holmes.

But in the British society, everyone has trained the discerning eye of the custom, and gentlemen like to follow the phrase "You are the way you look".

Therefore, whether or not to have a customized suit has become a symbol of mutual recognition among English gentlemen.

British writer Peter Mel (Peter Mayle) in the "Acquired Tastes" in such a narrative: "in social occasions, nothing is more frustrating than the frustration of clothes."

They were polite, but with a disdainful look on their faces, they looked up and down the suit you thought you were the most handsome.

At this point, you can't wait to run to the most famous custom shop. Although you can pay for a suit, you still need it. "

For this phenomenon, John Morgan, an old British gentleman, once wrote in his etiquette column for the times: "every man should customize a suit so that he will have a better understanding of gentleman spirit."

After his death, he left behind 60 sets of advanced suits in Saville street, 300 shirts with his initials abbreviated, and 90 pairs of hand-made leather shoes. This rich custom heritage has become a corroboration of his remarks.

These customships are accompanied by his gentlemanly etiquette expert, and it seems that the more customization they have, the more thorough the gentleman culture is.

Custom-made competition with fashionable garments

Today, it can be said that the style of men's clothing has been greatly integrated. The traditional gentry style has long been attracted by fashion.

Customization has come down in the conversation with garments.

Casual clothes beat custom

After the two World War, the then young man returned to his hometown from the battlefield, but after he became accustomed to light military uniform, he could no longer adapt himself to a firm suit with a sense of constraint.

The casual dress movement, which was brought up by these people, has dealt a heavy blow to the custom industry.

Under the trend of liberation of one's own body, the custom of representing the gentleman's tradition was thrown aside.

Customization is no longer honorable, but becomes the object of the times.

The New York Times reported a tailoring agency for Wall Street celebrities.

"There used to be 30 tailors in the organization, but if we go to the building today, we will be empty.

In the darkened tailor's room there were only some sewing machines around the wall, and some shoe boxes stacked in the middle of the floor.

No more shoes are sold. "

"The Philadelphia inquirer" reported: "the idea of wearing everyday clothes is irresistible.

Even the last company in Philadelphia to cut clothes for celebrities had to shut down.

The only way out for these customized clothing houses is to run south. Maybe in South America, people still wear suits, but they can't afford expensive customization. "

Meanwhile, Italy designer Giorgio Armani also launched a casual dress revolution in a timely fashion.

He enlarged the pattern of his clothes, simplified the structure and relaxed the outer line of the clothes, removed the traditional lining of the suit, adjusted the shoulder line, narrowed the collar and increased the pocket.

Armani's suits are not famous for their good fit. These ideas which are contrary to traditional custom have become the key to his success.

The garments made by him have no burden to wear and give people a sense of lightness, just like wearing sportswear.

In the movie American Gigolo, which was launched in 1980, the movie star Richard Gere throws clothes from the wardrobe to pieces on the bed, and each dress is sewn with Armani black and white labels.

This has become a mark of great importance in the history of men's clothing, while the Wall Street journal Fashion Journalist Teri Agins wrote in the The End Of Fashion: "obviously, Armani's lightweight suit has defeated the traditional custom, but he can not monopolize this patent, because in fashion, the popular style will be greatly imitated."

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Custom Jedi counterattack

The more successful the Armani suit is, the more difficult it is to customize it.

At that time, the traditional custom of Saville street, which was representative of the British custom, was suffering from the movement of casual clothes, with the choice of light clothing, and no one paid much attention to heavy customization.

Under such pressure, Tommy Nutter, the designer of Saville street, created a brand new style. In 1977, the Time (Times) summed up this style as "narrow edition, founder, pagoda shoulder line and tailored tailor's waist is an important element of his design. As for the lower part of the body, it is paired with slacks and trumpet shaped trousers."

This design has attracted the pioneers of the advocacy freedom movement - rock band.

Many of the famous rock bands, such as The Beatles and the lead singer Mick Jagger of the rolling stones, began to enjoy customization. The times commented: "many rock stars have discovered the joy of high quality British cutting.

A few years ago, many artists bought the ready-made Hugo Boss or Armani suit. It felt like hanging on the body. Now they return to the structured cut, and admire the suit with shoulder and waist fit.

British clothing and cutting are hot again. "

And the hippie in the society began to take off their jeans and return to the customized arms.

Although the innovative design of Tommy Nutter has been well received, Saville Street's old custom shop still regards it as a black sheep that destroys tradition.

In the dialogue between defending gentleman tradition and pursuing fashion, fashion prevailed again.

Before long, Tommy Nutter was invited to work for Kilgour French Stanbury, the biggest custom shop in the street.

Who will defend Savile Row?

Nowadays, under the attack of fashion and luxury brands, the current situation of Saville street is beginning to be worrying. Now, the number of handmade custom shops on the street has decreased from dozens to more than ten.

The traditional gentry style has been turned into fashion by T on the stage. It has evolved into the trend of the tie in the formal dress and the mixture of vest and T-shirt.

William and Harry, who were originally traditional gentlemen, are now only dressed in semi custom like garments. Their style is also moving rapidly towards Jude Law instead of their parents.

Saville Street's custom shop has set up an industry association, but it still does not know where to go.

It is interesting that the British seem to have abandoned the idea of customization.

As a traditional British screen icon, James Bond always appears in a neat suit in the 007 series, but behind the costumes stands a name full of Italy cultural background -- Italy brand Brioni and Tom Ford.

British men's clothing custom made

Speaking of British custom, there is no right of Savile Row.

The tailoring of Saville Street suits the British tradition, emphasizing the combination, self-cultivation and sense of lines.

The shoulders are slightly wider and the waist tightened. The upper body is hourglass.

The shoulder pads are natural when the shoulder pads are thin, and the armhole provides enough space for the arms.

Saville street is best known for its Bespoke service. Tailors will tailor a customer's exclusive version according to the size of the guests.

In addition, Saville Street insists on using ox horn buckles, with many versions of clothing, with thousands of styles to choose from.

It takes 6 to 8 weeks for a suit to be customized from size to customer, and many customers in the US often have to wait for 1 years.

1.Anderson&Sheppard (1873 store)

This is the most famous tailor shop on Savile Row street.

Customers include celebrities from all over the world.

Prince Charles has made dozens of double breasted suits in his family in recent years.

Full custom price: two sets 1960 pounds, three sets 2250 pounds.

Clothing time: 8 to 12 weeks.

2.Huntsman (1849 store)

This is the most expensive tailor shop on Savile Row.

Huntsman holds a variety of Royal supply licenses issued by the royal family.

There are thousands of styles to choose from and have their own fabric styles.

It is said that Huntsman likes to make pockets very shallow, so make sure you specify your requirements when making them.

Semi custom price: 2000 pounds

Full custom price: two sets of nearly 3700 pounds.

Clothing time: 10 to 12 weeks.

3.Henry Poole (1806 store)

For British gentlemen and royalty, it is a luxury sign to wear the custom made clothing of Henry Poole fashion shop.

This is the first tailor shop on Savile Row, so it is ranked 1 Savile Row street, with a variety of supply licenses issued by the British royal family, including Edward VII, and royal families.

Henry Poole also regularly visits Europe, the United States, Japan, China and other places to introduce the concept of advanced men's clothing to the world.

Full custom price: two sets of nearly 2500 pounds, three sets of nearly 3000 pounds.

Clothing time: 9 to 12 weeks.

Men's clothing in Italy and the United States

Outside the UK, men's clothing is the most popular in Italy and the United States.

Italy's menswear custom teacher in the United Kingdom, with its strong manual textile and leather industry as the background, derived from different custom styles.

Generally speaking, men's wear in Italy is custom-made with higher shoulders and the top of the sleeves is often higher than the shoulders.

The head position is low and slightly narrow.

Jacket is not slit or open slit, shorter and thinner, with a single row of 3 deductions.

The American custom is not designed to be practical and wearable. Bankers on Wall Street are regular customers in the United States.

1. Italy brand Brioni (1945 store)

Brioni, representing Rome style, has supporters such as Kofi Annan and James Bond. From the 007 era of the Pierce Brosnan era, Brioni is the brand of the top secret agent.

At the same time, it is also the most famous menswear custom brand in Italy.

Full custom price: $10000

Clothing time: 9 to 12 weeks.

2. Italy brand Kiton (1956 store)

Kiton's most famous custom design is its unique "Naples cuffs" and "Naples shoulders".

Only the collar of Kiton is sewn by five pieces of cloth separately, so that the neck curve of the wearer can be more fitted.

The "Naples rotator sleeves" are made by the tailor plucked on the sleeves, and the sleeves are surprisingly wide. The sleeves of the sleeves are three times larger than the armholes, so that the shoulder sleeves can be stretched freely.

Full custom price: Euro 7000

Clothing time: 9 to 12 weeks.

3. American brand Oxxford (1916 store)

Known as "President royal clothing", former US President Johnson, Ford and George Bush are Oxxford's regular customers.

Forbes magazine named it one of the 50 best brands in the United States.

The style is practical and durable.

Full custom price: $30000

Clothing time: 8 to 10 weeks.